THE TASTE OF THINGS/ LA PASSION DE DODIN BOUFFANT, France, 2023. Starring Juliette Binoche, Benoit Magimel, Emmanuel Salinger. Directed by Anh Hung Tran. 135 minutes. Rated PG (Mild nudity)
The title is a bit generic but it does lead us in the way of food. Perhaps the original French title, La Passion de Dodin Bouffant, which actually indicates the narrative of this story, seem too cumbersome for the English version.
Chef, menu, restaurant, gourmet, all words that lead us to France and French cuisine. And, for 135 minutes, this is a film, with extraordinary detail, about French cuisine. No idea here of just rustling something up for the evening meal.
What is immediately attractive about the presentation is that this is a period drama, an elegant 19th century mansion, costumes and decor, a slower paced atmosphere, inviting the audience in, to become more quiet, to observe, to wonder . . .
In fact, for the first 30 minutes of the film, there is a detailed step-by-step preparation of a meal – an ordinary meal in this household rather than a banquet even though the dishes prepared would serve beautifully at a banquet. This is the household of Bouffant who is a master chef, and who has been assisted, for more than 20 years, by Eugenie. Bouffant is obviously in love with her but she has refused his proposals. Eugenie is seen gathering the vegetables in the garden, then that half-hour in the kitchen, such preparation of each of the ingredients for the meal, the vast fire stove, the utensils, the attention given to preparing fish, meats, vegetables, sauces, precision with tastes and the time for cooking.
And, of course, beautiful desserts. We feel we are there. And there are still more meal preparations to come. And the guests savouring the meals. And a celebration for Eugenie herself.
Obviously, this is a film for audiences who value food, who appreciate preparation and cooking, who have a discriminating sense of taste. For audiences who do not, especially with fast-food habits and taste to match, this film will be a challenge – or, perhaps, too detailed, even boring.
The film was written and directed by Vietnam-born, Ahn Hung Tran, director of Vietnam themed films such as The Scent of Green Papaya and Cyclo. The screenplay is based on a book by Marcel Roufe (1877-1936, drawing on his own experiences of that period). There was a French movie for television of his book in 1972.
Binoche has been wonderful in films for more than 30 years and brings an extraordinary charm and strength to Eugenie, an older woman who for cooking is life, working with Dodin in the kitchen, supporting him in his meetings with business associates from the area, but not wanting to sit and eat with them though she has strong friendships with them. Dodin is played by the charming veteran actor Magimel.
There is a pleasant subplot of the assistant cook and her younger sister who is helping out. Eugenie discovers the young girl is gifted with all kinds of culinary talents, and the desire for her to become an apprentice in the kitchen, her parents initially wary, but the young girl eager to learn.
And for the romantics in the audience? There is the pleasing relationship between Eugenie and Dodin – genteel and restrained. What else can a reviewer say, except that the film is so beautiful to look at, the cast is charming, and the food, preparation, cooking, serving – parfait!
Rialto
Released 2 May